Noted
Breddos Tacos



A taco storm is sweeping London and the ones firing out at Breddos are Champions League quaility. Nud Dudhia and Chris Whitney started their taco shack in a Hackney car park in 2011, before several pop-ups and residencies, an extended stint with Street Feast, and now to their first permanent home on Goswell Road. A first visit revealed a flurry of belting plates: Pig's head cochiita pibil; beef rib eye with shrimp chiltomate; kung pao pork belly. Corn for tacos, tortillas and tostadas are ground each day on the volcanic stone mill. A special mention for an infernal sea urchin and queenie scallop tostada, an iodine slap of sea urchin and sweet, sweet scallop, with a kick of spice and chilli heat. The masa fried chicken taco with roasted habanero may need to be ordered twice on each visit: sodding good. 


breddostacos.com

@BreddosTacos

This Week

Campania & Jones,

Black Axe Mangal,

​Primeur, Aquavit


Consistently under the radar, tucked behind Columbia Road, Campania and Jones quietly do their thing. An open kitchen puts out gutsy Southern Italian plates of rustic beauty – it feels like you've stumbled into a locals gaff in a Campanian village. Recent visit: skilfully cooked risotto with funghi misti and porcini; fluffy domes of gnudi with sage butter. Go along, sit in the window seat, and kick yourself for never having been before. 


campanianandjones.com
 

The B*A*M* Reuben: brisket and tongue, choucroute, their own excellent flatbread, a flourish of Welsh Rarebit sauce à la St John recipe, with extra cayenne pepper for an added kick – an infernal twist on a classic. Brilliant.


blackaxemangal.com

 

A drop-in to the ever reliable Primeur in Canonbury. Chicken and foie gras terrine (their terrines are always winners); pumpkin ravioli with treviso and Pecorino – silky pasta, sweet Delica pumpkin, bitter twang of treviso. Great dish.

 

primeurn5.co.uk
 

Blood pudding, lardo and lingonberries; veal tartare; shrimp skagen (posh prawn cocktail); Swedish meatballs and creamy mash – an impressive first visit to this slick looking newcomer in revamped St James's Market.

aquavitrestaurants.com

 

Wine

Savvy Savagnin


Savagnin 'Les Clous' 2014, Le Roy

Côtes du Jura, France





A few small parcels of vines to the west of the Swiss border and Lake Geneva are tended by Henri Le Roy, the local Savagnin grape producing utterly distinctive whites. I read that Henri ‘abhors’ oxidation in the cellar, making his wines quite different to the ‘Vin Jaune’ wines which the region is famous for. This bristles with lip-smacking acidity and a mineral thrust that somehow conveys the sense of the soils formed in the Jurassic era, chock-full of sea shells and ancient rock formations – 'saline tang' sums it up. Enjoyed during a jolly gathering of winemakers at St John at their annual ‘Vignerons’ Lunch’, with rabbit and prunes: cosseting creamy mash completed the scene. 



Grand Indian Dining in Woodford



The Meghna Grill in South Woodford. Sunday. Some time in the 80s. A sprawling buffet, a pile of massive rustling onion bhajis. The eight-year-old me doesn’t know much about this kind of exotic scarfing, but he knows what he likes. Onion bhajis, yeah, those football sized (to me) fried things, are a right touch. Can I have another one, please?

Opened in 1972 by the Bangladesh High Commissioner, Mazir Uddin’s family run restaurant closed in 2013 when he retired, and a restaurant I grew up with was suddenly no more. The site was taken over by one of the most disastrous and doomed openings I can remember witnessing. Now what’s this in its place? A top Indian? Woodford? Go do one, mate. Not possible, not likely, it’ll never happen.


Read on...

Temper
Temper




Tacos, tacos, tacos. London is under a taco onslaught at the moment, and Temper have brought their own taco game to Soho. This jaw-dropping Soho basement site are grinding corn from Masienda, who partner with local farmers, smallholders and producers to produce top draw Mexican ingredients: the emphasis is on promoting agricultural bio-diversity, sustainability, and supporting smallholder farmers. The rough hewn tacos have heft and texture, and toppings are playful and imaginative: soy-cured beef, fermented chilli and sesame; aubergine and chipotle miso, green chilli, avocado; blowtorched mackerel, avocado, bottarga and green sauce; ibérico ham, pineapple, mozzarella, chipotle passata (a riff on a Hawaiian pizza…one worth eating). Smoked and grilled meats are cooked in the huge, supermodel of an open kitchen. The wine list is worth giving a good bashing, too


temperrestaurant.com
@temperldn

No
DUMmy




Enter the biryani. Who doesn’t like a good biryani? How often do we order one? Probably not often enough. This basement site on Wardour Street is aiming to blitz all (most) of those other distracting options from your Indian meal: you WILL walk out having ordered a biryani, the end. Chicken wings tossed in a spicy/sour Masala threaten to overshadow everything before we even see a biryani, hopping with slow chilli burn and a masala that has us chasing it around and sucking it off the bone. Andhra Prawn Fry has a similarly wicked sauce of red chilli and coconut. 'Scoop-up’ worthy.

Biryani arrives festooned with a pastry top – crack into that, scoop up fluffy rice scented with fragrant spice, hunks of lamb shank, and whack in the accompaniments of green chilli curry, boiled egg, and a smoked aubergine raita, if you’re in the mood. The tiny booths are cute, the place is cosy, the biryani mighty fine. Another Cobra please. Make it two. Cheers. 


dumlondon.com


Going Solo
Noble Rot, Issue N12

"Just for one please.” – How many times have I uttered this? A lot. I love it. I’m well up for this solo dining lark me...
 


Haunts

No words, just names and links. A few places we're bouncing in
and out of... New openings, old school faves, our current hit-list

Zeren Wilson

— It started with venison medallions and a Barossa Valley Shiraz: the dish that sent me down the path of food and wine while living in Sydney. A career change from advertising began by joining Oddbins in 2003, then to independent merchant The Winery (specialising in German Riesling, Burgundy, Piemonte, California), moving to selling wine to London restaurants, and a stint as sommelier at Zucca in Bermondsey — the writing kicked in after all of this. I’ve written for various publications including The Evening Standard, The Guardian, Christie’s Magazine, The London Magazine, Noble Rot, Completely London, Caterer, and Ocado magazine. I consult on wine lists for restaurants, recent projects including Smoking Goat, Kiln, Coombeshead Farm, Bibo, Arabica Bar and Kitchen, Frontline Club, Cây Tre and Martello Hall.