No Duress

The village of Auxey-Duresses tends to be the one that slips under the radar, jammed as it is between the two more illustrious (and pricier) villages of Volnay and Meursault – for this reason, it often delivers great bang for buck from vines a short stagger away from the famous vineyards that command the high prices.


Gilles Lafouge represents the sixth generation of winemakers stretching back to the 17th century. A nutty complexity on the nose marked this out as good Burgundy (we were tasting blind), and my guess was angling towards Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet. Around £80 on the list here, it kept step with the more illustrious Comtes Lafon Meursault we tasted afterwards.


Enjoyed amongst a flurry of other top wines at Hedone, where chef/owner Mikael Jonsson’s obsessive attention to sourcing delivered, amongst much else of merit, the best sweetbreads I’ve ever had: quite remarkable.