Marvellous Muscadet

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2013, Domaine de la Pepière, Loire, France

Muscadet is now a savvy choice on good wine lists, and Marc Ollivier makes a benchmark expression in the village of La Pépière, this wine coming from a 12 hectare stony, granite rich vineyard. Exhilarating, eye-widening freshness and minerality, taut and direct, a sleek racehorse of a wine. It’s ok to drink Muscadet, when they are as good as this one. Honest.